There he was, trodding along the icy back roads of northern Manitoba, a single, cream-colored polar bear. In the back seat of my hosts 4×4, I knew I was safe, but my heart jump and my jaw dropped.

We had searched these fields of rock and snow and ice for hours, for nothing. And as if he had been playing hide and seek, there was, ready to be found.

With each step, he got a little closer until he looked up and paused. He gave us a wide berth as he circled the car, like a shark sniffing in the air to identify us.

At the peak of the counter, I could see the individual bristles of his off-white coat and the sloshing footprints as the half-frozen ponds didn’t phase him.

Welcome, to Churchill Manitoba – where giants co-exist with humans –  at least for a few months every year.

 

Exploring Churchill in Manitoba

My second day began early, much before the sun rose along the distant eastern horizon. The wind was calm and the stage set for one of those days engrained into memory.

As the bus bounced and rumbles to the Frontiers North Tundra Buggy Tour, a missile is stretched upright, and although this area used to be a military test site and live ammunition was found just a few years back, there are other, much more dangerous reasons why venturing out by yourself is a very, very bad idea. Bears!

It is late October and Snow has settled in for the long cold winter. A blanket of white on almost everything.

Churchill would be a dreary place without some color – something the town has in droves, both literally and figuratively speaking.

Vibrant murals spread along with buildings and locals warm northern greeting. A sense of humor that was introduced before I arrived in the town- the train tracks leading to the town are sections of old toys, computers and gas stations offering the “last gas till Churchill”.

It’s that warm welcome, by dolls covered in snow, that made me love this northern winter wonderland, even before I had arrived.

This was just part of the VIA Rail Train from Thompson to Churchill.

 

What is there to do in Churchill?

There are four seasons for tourism in Churchill:

• Polar Bears – October and November these giant hunters laze the shoreline and area all around Churchill (and inside the town) waiting for Hudson Bay to freeze over.
• Northern Lights – January and March holds the highest concentration of northern lights in the area around Churchill. Cloud cover is minimal and the nights are long – perfect conditions of Aurora Borealis to be witnessed.
• Beluga Whales – July to August is the best time to see these unique and majestic animals swimming in Hudson Bay.
• Bird Watching – July to August is the high point of wildlife in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area and surroundings.

Many of these seasons do overlap. For example, on average, Churchill has 300 nights per year with Aurora Borealis (northern lights) in the sky, it’s just that January to March has a much higher chance.

You’re more likely to see polar bears between the boreal forest and shoreline of Hudson Bay from October to November, but there is a chance of seeing them anytime there is no sea ice over the bay.

In late October, it’s the prime season in Churchill to view North America’s largest land carnivore- the Polar Bear.

During my time in Churchill, I was privileged to encounter 15 polar bears. Some from a distance and some so close, if I were not protected by a shield of metal, I would have been nervous.

Three separate tours gave three different views into this frozen landscape.

From the close and personable sounds of polar bears sloshing through chilly, muddy ponds, the Tundra Buggy that toured through the Churchill Wildlife Management Area (CWMA), and the 4×4 with excited calls of rare wolves in the area (Nanuq Tours), each had a totally different feel.

These bears become restless and bored as they wait for Hudson Bay to freeze solid, the seal hunting grounds of these intimidating, off-white giants.

One guy chewed on trees before slipping over on a rock, others slept and stretched out. It’s a long wait till those seals are within grasp.

 

Around the town of Churchill

There’s a unique way Churchill in Manitoba presents itself for newcomers and locals alike. Above the snow-blown surface, there’s a lot to see around Churchill Manitoba.

While my main of visiting Churchill polar bears, there is so much more to do in Churchill.

A number of murals are painted around the town of Churchill – from psychedelic space polar bears and beluga, beautifully painted wolves and polar bear statues are pretty to find. These colorful works of art add a dash of color to the landscape.

Churchill’s histories, both traditional and modern, give an insight into a town so easily to fall in love with. During my 5 days in Churchill, I talked to a number of locals that had planned just to visit, and suddenly found themselves attached and soon calling this townhome.

While the Canadian military shaped much of the modern history of Churchill – the paths the buggys take and possible unexploded explosives – many stories shape this landscape and fascinate visitors (including myself). You can learn about the military history of Churchill in Manitoba by visiting Cape Merry Battery or even Prince of Whales Fort across the Churchill River.

Miss Piggy, the downed plane plopped atop a pile of rocks, is the cause of conflicting stories of how it got there. Carrying swine (pigs), two pilots lost an engine, and although were inline with the Churchill Airport Runway, fell short. They were “in the pub before emergency services got to them”. How true that is? I have no idea, but it sure is a great tale.

Another wreck, the Ithica, is a ship stranded not far into the Hudson Bay is a local favorite hike. My Airbnb host loves to walk with her kids at the giant rusting heap that has become an icon of Churchill.

A little further outside of town, you can learn about a more scientific side of Churchill. The Northern Studies Center is the hub for scientists involved in the area. If you’re specifically looking for more information on polar bears, Polar Bear International has a building that opened in October 2019 that has some pretty interesting information on these hunters.

 

First impressions of Churchill, Manitoba

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My very first impressions of Churchill was of a colorful town with a sense of humor and a welcoming embrace – you can easily spot that with the dolls and random items beside the train tracks “welcoming you to Churchill”.

Arriving in Churchill, my Airbnb host was at the station waiting to pick myself and partner up, with no pick-up booking, she just thought it would be helpful!

From my first impressions of Churchill in Manitoba to my very last, it was warm town even when the temperature dropped below zero and the windy blizzards moved in.

I had heard it was a safe and friendly town (except for the polar bear threat around every corner) and I have to say, that’s exactly how I found it.

What did surprise me is just how much there is to do in Churchill, Manitoba (and around the town). Natural wilderness, plentiful wildlife, both traditional and modern history, colorful artworks and more tours than you can cover in a week, all while plenty of northern humor and warm welcomes.

Whatever you’re searching the icy tundra or small-town streets for, Churchill in Manitoba has something for each and every visitor.

It’s definitely worth noting that peak seasons, town books out of accommodation far in advance. Book your Churchill accommodation early.

 

Here’s a short video on exploring the northern Manitoba town of Churchill

A short movie I created to give more of a visual insight into what Churchill in Manitoba is like. From polar bears in the tundra to painted on walls, foxes roaming the icy wilderness to a vast Hudson Bay, let’s explore Churchill!

 

Have you visited Churchill? I’d love to hear what you thought in the comments below!

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Thanks for reading!

Happy and safe travels,

Ben – Horizon Unknown