As famous stretches of road are plenty, the scenic asphalt between Hoi An and Hue in Vietnam is up there with the best of them. Hai Van Pass, translating to “Ocean Cloud Pass” was firmly solidified into the tourist Banana Pancake trail in 2008 when it appeared on the television program Top Gear.

Former presenter, Jeremy Clarkson referred to the Hai Van Pass, a 21km section of the road more specifically between Da Nang and Hue, as “a deserted ribbon of perfection-one of the best coastal roads in the world”. While the entire highway from Hoi An to Hue (or vise-versa) is full of more secluded gems, it is the Hai Van Pass that most defiantly steals the show.

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Hai Van Pass History

This short chunk of the road has held importance dating back to ancient times as it played a large strategic role in Vietnam’s history. In the 1^st Century A.D., Chinese General Ma Yuan established a southern border here. It resembled a major physical land barrier to any army of the time. It’s steep enough on a motorcycle, let alone on horseback!

During the Vietnam War, the pinnacle of the Hai Van Pass was also used as a U.S. military outpost. It defiantly gives gave a sweeping view both north and south. The entire road weaves between mountain peaks and cliff edges, giving spectacular views.

However, being a novice bike rider (Hue’s abandoned water park was maybe my third time operating two wheels), my partner and I decided to take a tour from Hoi An to Da Nang. A company, Easy Riders Vietnam, gives one-way and return trips between the two Vietnamese cities.

They also take the worry of luggage transportation as your large bags are securely strapped right behind the seat. It also makes a comfy backrest. Enjoying the scenery is much easier when watching the road fly beneath your front tire isn’t a concern. Plus I was able to take my DSLR camera with me as we road, photographing the whole journey.

I know for me at least, a lot of the gorgeous scenery would have been missed as I would have been fixated on the road ahead. Our drivers, Nam and Throng, had full knowledge of the road, points of interest and rules of driving in Vietnam – some that weren’t initially obvious to me. It is made into a full-day tour that is incredibly memorable!

Leaving Paddy’s Hostel from Hoi An in the early morning sunlight and surprisingly congested traffic, I was slightly nervous. This soon turned into the excitement of being on the back of an actual motorbike. This bike was slightly more powerful than any bike I had operated before…by a couple hundred CC’s I would say.

 

Hai Van Pass Stops

Along Hai Van Pass further towards Vietnam’s underrated city of Da Nang there are a few points of interest that are orchestrated stops, some of them situated right beside the highway.

Easy Riders Vietnam offer a customizable itinerary, making the most out of your individual tour. Having already visited Marble Mountains, our two drivers split from the rest of the crowd. This gave us a much more personalized tour and spending longer at other points of interest.

A stunning viewpoint is never far away along the mountainous Hai Van Pass. Sweeping vistas of Da Nang and Chan May Bay are only two highlights along a constant road of beauty. Deserted beaches stretching along South East Asia’s coast and given time to soak in such stunning scenery makes Easy Riders Hai Van Pass tour a highlight of my travels.

 

Hai Van Pass Lookout and U.S. Military Outpost

Standing guard over one of the highest viewpoints along the Hai Van Pass section of road is a U.S. Military outpost from the Vietnam War era. No doubt giving a great strategic advantage as you can see so far off into the distance. By mid-day, tourists are swarming all over the lookout’s ragged ruins. It is, however, overshadowed by the spectacular vistas both north and south.

 

Elephant Springs

On the backside of Hai Van Pass, along a lesser-known back road through some lush green scenery, we arrived at Elephant Springs. By now the mid-day sun was scorching down and the clear refreshing water offered great relief.

It didn’t take long to realize Elephant Springs was a hot spot for both tourists and locals alike. Cascading pools filled with people enjoying the cool water. There is a rock water slide, short but you gain speed quickly! Now smooth from the constant friction of people using the shortcut into the water. A small yet powerful waterfall feeds water at the exit of the slide, streaming down over rocks with a surprisingly strong current flow. Right next to the waterfall’s edge is the reason Elephant Springs has its name. A large elephant statue stands, carved out of stone.

Note: Not included in the tour price was the entrance to Elephant Springs. Two bikes and people (our motorcycle drivers were exempt from this fee) came to 35,000 VND ($1.50 USD).

 

Fishing Village Along Hai Van Pass

By the time we neared Hue, it had been a long day as early afternoon shadows grew longer as the sun began to dip towards the horizon. A fishing village was our final stop before entering the chaotic city. It was a welcome time to stretch and rest of eardrums! That bike’s engine is LOUD! While the fishing village was more of an impromptu stop, it was a lovely insight into the life of a rural Vietnamese fisherman. Often too poor to afford both a boat and a house, these men combine the two. Setting their home under the cover of a makeshift awning aboard their boat. With Hue being so close, the fish and seafood market is where they travel most days to sell their catch. Flat and picturesque, the view was a fitting end to a day filled with amazing scenery and colorful locals.

 

Hai Van Pass Easy Riders Tour Info

This Easy Riders tour came to $60 USD ($76 AUD), per person. It was by far one of the most expensive days during my visit to Vietnam if not all of South East Asia. However, if you would rather take in as much scenery as possible or just don’t feel comfortable driving the very challenging road, I recommend Easy Riders tours. http://www.easyrider.vn

Our drivers for the day, Nam and Trong, were always in control and I never felt unsafe at all. Funny and genuine guys made it a very enjoyable day.

Paddy’s Hostel arranged everything for us. Pick up was early in the morning. Around ten tourists departed at the same time and stopped at Marble Mountain, not far out of Hoi An. Skipping this attraction was not an issue as the tour was personalized for us on the spot!

Just to be clear, this is not a sponsored post, this is just my experience with Easy Riders Vietnam and the Hai Van Pass.

If you’re after a great place to stay in Hue – Why Not Hostel has private and dorm rooms and is highly recommended.

 

Hai Van Pass Tips

Bring small denominations of cash for Elephant Springs, as they didn’t appear to have much change on hand when I was there.

Anything you want for the day would be much more accessible in a daypack. It’s a slight pain to untie it all to access something inside. The back seat of the bike is long enough to fasten large backpacks easily. They are secured under a thick plastic sheet to protect it from the rain.

At least in my experience, Asia isn’t really known for maintained rental helmets. These were a definite exception to the rule. Mine even had a Go Pro mount to record the entire way!

I wore new “parachute” style pants I had bought a few days earlier. They did not last. In fact, they did not survive intact outside of Hoi An. By the end of the day, they didn’t resemble pants. I accepted my fate of awkward stares, but trusted pants might help here!

Don’t forget your camera!

Many companies offer similar if not the same tours from Hoi An to Hue along the Hai Van Pass and other stops – you can take a car if you don’t feel comfortable on the back of a motorbike, but it is a lot of fun.

 

From Hoi An to Hue Along the Hai Van Pass Map

 

Highlights of Hai Van Pass

Hai Van Pass’ highest point, giving a stunning view. Climbing on the abandoned U.S. Military outpost improves this view slightly.

Elephant Springs is a great way to beat the Vietnamese heat, even though you won’t be alone!

Driving the Hai Van Pass on the back of a motorcycle was a definite highlight. Being able to relax and take in the scenery, as well as photograph it, made it all the more special.

 

Have you completed the Hai Van Pass? On a tour or by yourself? I’d love to hear your take on it! Leave me a comment below! 🙂

 

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