Roughly situated in the in the northern mountainous parts of Laos, Phonsavan is home to a series of mysterious stone-like Plain of Jars. Many theories have been put forward by experts as to their creators, their purpose, and even the materials used. Even a Lao legend of a giant exists as a theory.

Phonsavan’s Plain of Jars sites are estimated to be around 2000 years old and is clouded with mystery. During more recent history, the Secret War was waged on Laos behind the scenes of the Vietnam War. This is why Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world. It quickly became an area I was eager to learn more about.

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Why NOT To Visit Plain Of Jars, Phonsavan By Yourself

Let me explain why Phonsavan, indeed most of Laos, is NOT the country to wander off wherever you like on your own. Between 1964 and 1973, the US Military dropped an estimated 270 million bombs on Laos – this is more than dropped on all of Europe during all of WWII combined. This “Secret War” equates to a planeload of bombs being dropped over Laos every 8 minutes, for 24 hours a day, for NINE YEARS.

It is estimated 80 million of these bombs are still live and potentially fatal. They maim and kill to this day. Buried in rice fields, streams, even embedded in trees – they’re just waiting to be disturbed to indiscriminately do what they were created to do. Most are cluster bombs, nicknamed “bombies”, that look like little tennis balls, which are dangerously appealing to children.

For more information, I highly recommend visiting both the UXO Survivor Information Center and MAG UXO Visitor Information Center in Phonsavan itself. Other than learning hard to stomach facts, you learn the stories of the, of all ages, affected by this far from-over war. Make a donation to support the rehabilitation of survivors or to groups such as Mines Advisory Group to continue to clear the precious land of explosives for farmers and the population as a whole. You can also purchase unique, hand-made crafts made by the victims themselves.

It is truly eye-opening to visit these places, you should do your best to make time to visit one, or both Links and directions are all below.

 

Foreword Upon Visiting Phonsavan’s Plain Of Jars

While it is confirmed the area of Phonsavan has over 90 sites that create the “Plain of Jars”, due to the threat of Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) only three sites are open to the public. Although Non-Profit Organisations such as Mines Advisory Group (MAG) have cleared sections of the Xiangkhouang Province, dangers still exist.

While visiting any of the three Plain of Jars sites, staying between the stone signs embedded in the ground is essential.  As there is no guarantee not to step on an UXO outside of these markings.

The land between these signs has been cleared deep and is the route you can visit these sites safely. Straying either side of these markers means your safety is NOT ensured. However, the good news is they are quite obvious and easy to follow.

I’ve added a couple images to give more of an idea of what to look for. As well as the trails around each jar site, the jars themselves have been cleared of UXO.

It does sound a little daunting, but as long as you stick to that path, there’s nothing to worry about. While on route to Jar site 2, we were lucky enough to get a glimpse of MAG in action at a random pond along the roadside en route to the first Plain of Jars site where the workers were marking and securing the bomb for safety before moving or demolition.

While this was cool to see happening in front of me. It really reinforced how prevalent the issue of UXO are. I mean this was a bomb being uncovered in a farmer’s field just 100m in from a commonly used secondary road!

 

Getting To Phonsavan’s Plain Of Jars Sites

As I had very little clue of this area’s history, my group and I planned to rent motorbikes and visit the areas ourselves. This, of course, was shut down VERY quickly. Not even regular taxi drivers on the street are permitted to take visitors to any of the sites. It’s regulated for everyone’s protection.

Many of the tour operators in Phonsavan offer a Plain of Jars package. Restrictions are implemented by the Lao Government as to who can take visitors to these sites – you must be an accredited driver. This put my mind to ease a little knowing it was regulated as such.

As we left for our tour, we even had to stop at one of the government offices for our driver to quickly obtain the permit to go to the jars.

This private tour cost 150,000 ($23.75 AUD) per person, including entrance fee, lunch, and driver/guide. Even though there wasn’t too much information given, I think mainly because all experts have are theories. There was a more slightly more expensive option that included a guide for the tour.

These massive jars, ranging from 1-3 meters wide, are said to have stored things. Rice? Wine? Monsoon water for passing caravans? Another theory is that they were used for funerary purposes, they’re even found some burial grounds in the area near jar sites. Currently, over 90 jar sites exist, while only three are open to visitors.

Our driver, Kum, filled us in briefly about the theories, but mostly engaged us with small talk and jokes. He was a funny guy with extensive knowledge of the Phonsavan and Plain of Jars areas.

 

Visiting Phonsavan’s Plain Of Jars

Around half an hour out of Phonsavan was our first of three stops: Site #2. Most of the jars made me envision that giant from the Lao legends, scooping wine from these enormous stone-like cylinders. Under the shade of a large tree, sheltered from the mid-day heat, it was interesting to chat about what each of us thought these barrel-type containers were used for.

Around 15 minutes away was Site #3. A careful walk along the shoulders of the rice paddies and marked path through a farmer’s field found this more secretive site. Just like Site #2, we were alone to explore. Not a single another person in sight.

The final stop was Site #1, and this was by far the most popular. Not only were there other people here, but there were around 100! It was a much bigger site with many more jars at this site, including one that was significantly larger than the others. This site also has a small cave, in which archeologists ’ unearthed evidence of a crematorium. As I took this final site in, I thought about the awful impact of these many massive craters caused by the US Air Force’s bombing raids. Damage from the Secret War is also visible on the jars themselves. Just as other places in South East Asia, such as My Son, just outside of Hoi An in Vietnam, these gouges in the earth were unmistakable.

 

Phonsavan Plain Of Jar’s Information

To visit the Plain of Jars, there are different tour options to suit your time and interests. Don’t try to visit by yourself. There’s a reason why you need to hire an accredited driver.

I visited both Information centres (information listed below), and while confronting. I highly suggest visiting them and learning about this Secret War. On top of from informational videos and plaques, you learn personal stories and why atrocities like this should never be allowed to happen again.

The small town of Phonsavan itself is quiet. This might be due to low season, but accommodation didn’t seem to be abundant. The main strip is easily walkable, and plenty of restaurants and bars offer more information on the area’s history. While most display the shells of bombs, some establishments even offer short movies on the Secret War and how it ties into the Vietnam War.

MAG UXO Visitor Information Center

Quality of Life Association UXO Survivor Information Center

 

Phonsavan Plain Of Jar’s – Tips

Most of the paths are flat and easily walked. Once at the sites, straying from the marked paths is a potentially fatal decision. Keep an eye out for the next ones and if they seem to disappear suddenly, retrace your steps.

If you can, opt to see all 3 sites instead of just the most popular. Though yes, they are all similar jars, it’s really interesting to see the diverse areas the sites are located in!

Shopping around the few open tour agencies got a slightly better price. Lunch was also included on the tour.

Alternatively, you can book a day tour to the Plain of Jars online. It’s a little more expensive than booking in person, but you can see exactly what you get before you buy.

You can also check out the best Phonsavsan guesthouses and hotels in this small Lao town.

 

Phonsavan Plain Of Jar’s – Highlights

-Even though it was incredibly difficult, learning about the history and constant struggles was eye-opening, especially the Secret War I had very little idea about before Phonsavan.

-Visiting a lot of shops and restaurants in Phonsavan you will see a lot of old bomb shells strung up.

-The Plain of Jars sites was a unique view of an ancient civilization and highly recommend a visit.

 

Click here for more Laos tips, including how to to get from Vietnam to Laos.

Around 5 1/2 hours drive to the southwest sits Vang Vieng. A small town with a party orientated vibe – it has calmed down a lot since a few alcohol-related incidents led to fatalities. There is much more Vang Vieng has to offer, I suggest visiting Blue Lagoon 3!

 

If you’ve visited Phonsavan’s Plain of Jars sites, I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences of the tour. Let me know, along with any questions or concerns below by leaving a comment! 

 

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