To be honest, Battambang was never on my list of must-see places of Cambodia. Neither was the Bamboo Train of Battambang, it just seemed like it would be a tourist trap. I guess it was in a way, as the shops at the end of the line gave quite a hard sell. Battambang’s bamboo train ended up being a very unexpected highlight of my Cambodia travels.

So when I decided I wanted to write a blog post all about the fun and slightly scary experience of Battambang’s makeshift bamboo train, I was kind of gutted to know what I enjoyed in late 2017 no longer exists.

I don’t want to give false information, that’s why I’ve enlisted some help from someone who has visited the new Battambang Bamboo Train.

John from The Hangry Backpacker and I have put together this article as a comparison of the bamboo train that was, and the new Battambang attraction that exists today.

 

Old Battambang Bamboo Train experience

After arriving in Battambang via slow boat from Siem Reap the day before, I was eager to explore this less visited destination in Cambodia.

From the center of Battambang, my group of 3 rented bicycles for the day (for just $2 as well) and set off on the 5-6km journey to Battambang’s Bamboo Train.

It was quite easy to get lost with few streets marked well and less in English, my phone displayed the route on the free app, Maps.Me. once we arrived at where the marker was dropped, it wasn’t obvious where the track would be. Security chuckled as he pointed where he assumed we wanted to go, and he was dead right. Not too sure if there was much else to attract a tourist to this area – didn’t seem it anyways. The security guard even minded our bikes for free.

The history of Battambang’s old bamboo train made for an interesting attraction.

For $5 USD return, we boarded the flat bamboo bed on a pair of steel axles that was definitely from a regular train. With a small motor on the back started, we set off smoothly along this single, one-way track into the dense jungle.

The flatbed of bamboo was not overly secured to the train wheels, rather just seemed to sit on top. And to make to ride a little more comfortable, there were cushions to sit on.

In the beginning, the ride was slow and I began to agree with my thought of a tourist trap. The bamboo cart hit a top speed of 32km/hr – which is so close to the ground, with no seat belt or barricade other than the hand railing informer to hold on tight – it was scary at points.

Most of the track was straight and flat but whenever the train switched to another track, a loud bang and a forcefully jerking motion were even more nerve-wracking. A few curves in the track made me grip that handlebar so tight that my palms were sweaty by the end! It was a lot quicker than I expected, that’s for sure!

 

Battambang’s old Bamboo Train halfway point

It was the halfway mark of this return journey where the only form of “trap” was encountered. Once the “trains” reached the end of the line (the line itself went into the barely maintained jungle) were shops were set up. These shops only income were from tourists waiting for the train back, so the selling tactic was fairly aggressive.

The one thing I learned from this whole trip is the cost of buying from children. These kids, probably around 10-12 years old had learned the selling tactic of the vendors quickly. Selling handmade bracelets and I’m sure many tourists thought them (they were only a dollar each).

While they get money in the short term, it’s not encouraging to continue their education and can result is a vicious cycle of poverty – if you still want to give back the locals, and I highly encourage It, is to find local organizations who improve the overall community and donate to them.

If you’re interested in volunteering with kids in Cambodia, it’s vital you make sure you go through the right channels. This helps ensure your interactions with local children provide a positive impact for their future.

 

The way back to the beginning station

The way back was much the same but had a lot more encounters by trains moving in the opposite direction to us. As I said this was a single train track, with no way of passing other vehicles. So to get by, the train was completely dismantled from the tracks and moved out of the way, and then once the coast was clear, continued on the journey.

This required a general rule of thumb, that the train cart with the least amount of passengers (the maximum was 4) would have to move and dismantle their cart. Our group of three only had to get off once, but it was super interesting to watch these men do it so effortlessly. This is also probably why the bamboo seating platform isn’t connected too well to the axles – dismantling was a common practice.

 

The new Battambang Bamboo Train – By The Hangry Backpacker

When I initially became aware of the Battambang Bamboo Train, it was on a travel documentary. I remember seeing this old, makeshift cart rolling on forgotten train tracks in an unfamiliar place, Battambang, in Cambodia. Tourists would pay locals for a ride on the cart, and it looked like fun.

After seeing this show, I thought it would be fun too, someday, travel to this far away place and play around on an old train track. The idea of seeing the forgotten infrastructure put to modern use by the local population, and going for a ride myself, was enticing.

When I got to Battambang years later, I was still looking forward to the Bamboo Train. Little did I know things have changed. The Bamboo Train of Battambang is one of the most fabricated, inauthentic activities I have experienced in my travels.

The excitement and thrill of riding on a rickety old cart are lost. Instead, visitors are lured to an organized tourist trap. Arriving at the Bamboo Train is a shock. Expecting to find an old track running through the jungle or a rice field, instead, there is a giant parking lot.

At the head of the parking lot is a large, stately visitor center. And it is stately. Under the guise of “safety,” the Cambodian government saw an opportunity to make money. The entire operation, which I presumed to be local and informal, is regulated from the start.

The newly organized tourist activity that is the Battambang Bamboo Train starts with queuing in line at the ticket window. From there, tourists are herded to a covered area and instructed to wait for the incoming trains.

When the shiny, new trains arrive, each of about a dozen trains is filled before setting off. The first few minutes were fun, as I was still expecting something to happen. Here’s a spoiler alert: nothing happens.

The bamboo train rolls around a few curves and moves on for about 10 minutes before coming to rest at another station, complete with bright new pavement and fresh tracks. Here, everyone gets off the trains and walks around the empty huts for about 15 minutes.

Local vendors are waiting to sell tourists water, snacks, and overpriced goods. After the wait is over, I found my train in the row of carts and we were off again. We went back in the same direction from which we came.

Another 10 or 15 minutes later, we were back at the visitor center. And that was it. The Battambang Bamboo Train is not what is advertised, and it is certainly not what I recall seeing from the documentary years ago. The entire experience is fake and designed to squeeze every penny out of tourists in the area.

Unfortunately, what initially drew tourists to spend money here – an authentic, fun and unique experience – is no more. Battambang is a cool city for wandering, but the Bamboo Train is a big letdown.

 

So, is the new Bamboo Train of Battambang worth the visit?

It’s hard to argue that Battambang’s Bamboo Train didn’t lose its soul during the move.

From overgrown, secluded jungle on a narrow track with rattling wheels that could spin off at any moment, to the paved and attraction that it is today. It doesn’t have the same feel. There are no tree branches within questionable distance as they whizz past the speeding slab of bamboo.

Sure, there still might be a worthy visit left for some, but after the thrill of what the old Battambang Bamboo Train was, I don’t think it would hold nearly that level of enjoyment for those returning.

 

Have you visited Battambang’s Bamboo Train – either the old or the new? I’d love to hear about your experience of either (or both) below! Just leave a comment!

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Thanks for reading!

Happy and safe travels,

Ben – Horizon Unknown