Myanmar (formerly Burma) is home to some absolutely stunning sights. Bagan lies in the heart of this colourful country. Within a 26 square-mile area, over 2,000 temples, stupas, and pagodas remain standing today. Spending time exploring this area is one of my most unique and memorable adventures in all of Asia. This 2 day Bagan itinerary will guide you through the must-see list – plus a whole lot more!

This tiny temple town was the capital of the Pagan Kingdom from the 9th to the 13th centuries. During this time over 10,000 Theravada Buddhist(the oldest surviving form of the religion) temples were built. Since then, time and nature have eroded and decayed the majority of them – earthquakes being a major cause of damage. The latest earthquake was in 2016 and still today many bear the scars of the natural disaster. To this day many structures still bear the scars of the natural disaster.

 

 

Upon reaching the town’s limits, checkpoints are set up for foreigners to pay the 25,000 Kyat fee (pronounced “chat”) to enter the region/explore ancient city. This fee is well worth it. I would’ve paid double, even triple to see the beautiful sights of Bagan. The entrance ticket is valid for three days, which I think is more than enough time to see the highlights (and even a day trip out of Bagan if you’re so inclined).

 

Bagan is separated into three main sections:

• Old Bagan – This is where the majority of temples stand. It is amazing to look over the sheer amount of manmade peaks that break up the otherwise flat plains.
• New Bagan – This town was created to house the locals who were moved from Old Bagan. Speaking with some locals and other travellers, I did hear this move was forced to make way for more tourism infrastructure. All around the temples and pagodas of old Bagan was a city of wooden buildings up until the 1990s when the government forcibly relocated everyone.
• Nyuang U – This is the “nightlife” hub. Most accommodation and restaurants are in this area, and sits quite close to Old Bagan – hence the more expensive price tag. I put nightlife in quotation marks because if you want to only party, Bagan will not be for you.

 

Bagan Itinerary Foreword

Most itineraries will begin from Nyuang U, as it is the central tourist hub. Even though I visited in the wet season, last minute accommodation was quite expensive, so my group of four (myself included) looked outside the main area for our place to sleep.

Ever New Guesthouse was a little drive out of the main sights, but the affordable rate of the rooms and cheap taxis made it so much more accessible. But by far the main bonus was the ability to hire bikes directly from our hotel. Plus, it was a short drive to Bagan’s train station (more about getting to/from Bagan below!)

If you’ve read any of my posts about renting any vehicle in Asia, then you already know that I like to rent through my hostel/hotel or an affiliated company. If something goes wrong, you’re not totally on your own (for the most part, at least).

During my time in Myanmar, I was told that renting a motorbike to a foreigner is technically illegal in some parts of the country. Bagan has found the loophole of renting out E-Bikes. These E-Bikes are a great idea until you notice there are no charging stations except for the point at which you hired your bike. I was told a fully charged bike has a range of around 35 km, but I hit close to 40km on one day. It did become quite sluggish, so you do get a little warning before the battery completely dies. I like to live dangerously I guess 😉

After I called Ever New Guesthouse (I used an MPT Simcard throughout Myanmar), I was assured that if our bikes ran out, they would deliver us new ones. However, in the end, I never got to test out that policy.

 

Bagan Two Day Itinerary Sights

Throughout the years many of the temples, pagodas, and stupas have had their names lost from one generation to the next. These overlook stupas are totally worth visiting. The names of some personal favourites aren’t known by anyone (including Google), but if you’re driving past and feel the need to stop, don’t ignore that instinct!

I won’t go too deep into the “unknown” temples unless I can give specific directions, because if you’re off searching for one specific stupa or pagoda, it may be very hard to find. I find driving around Bagan that getting lost is half of the adventure – so if there are any structures that take your fancy along the way, definitely stop!

Climbing on pagodas was the best way to get a beautiful view of the area, especially at sunrise/sunset. However, since November 2017 it is now illegal to climb on the ancient structures. To make up for the amazing views that are lost to new visitors, viewing platforms have been installed around the area.

The views were incredible, sure, but I do agree with this new law. Not only was the constant scramble of tourists eroding the stone faster, many steps were loose or uneven, and a fall from that height could be very bad. Plus, conservation is super important so future generations can experience the beauty of Bagan!

This new law was also brought in to further the application for UNESCO World Heritage status. Since 1999 Bagan has remained on a tentative list for eight submissions, one of the major issues to being accepted is the preservation of these beautiful buildings.

As I haven’t visited Bagan since the new laws came in, I’d love to hear from someone who has and can elaborate on what structures (if any) are able to be climbed legally.

 

What to See in Bagan – Day 1

Shwezigon Pagoda – This Buddhist Pagoda was built during the reign of King Anawrahta, the founder of the Pagan Dynasty. It was completed in 1102 AD and this golden pagoda I feel is a perfect introduction to what Bagan has in store!

Shwezigon Pagoda is said to enshrine a bone and a tooth of Buddha. It was massively reconstructed after the damage from the 1975 earthquake.

Just East of Bulethi Stupa – This stupa is one of those “unknown” named ones. I think it was a beautiful sight and definitely worth a visit even though it’s lost much of its history to time. If you would like better directions, check out the map at the bottom of the listed highlights.

Ananda Temple – Originally built in 1105 AD, this largely refurbished temple after the 1975 earthquake is one of the most well-known temples in all of Bagan. It only takes one look at it to see why! Personally, this is one of my top three temples, pagodas and stupas in the entire area.

Ananda Temple has earned the nickname of the “Westminster Abbey of Myanmar”. Its spires were gilded in 1990 to commemorate its 900th anniversary of original construction.

Shwegu Gyi Phaya – Built in 1131 AD, this temple literally translates to “Great Golden Cave”. While it’s not typically as golden as the modern refurbished temples, it’s blackened stone is beautiful in its own right and seeing how close it is to other temples, shouldn’t be missed!

Thatbyinnyu Temple – Another of my top three. The sheer size of Thatbyinnyu Temple is astonishing. Built in the 12th century, it comes in as Bagan’s highest ancient structure at a towering 61m tall!
I bought one of my favourite souvenirs from all over Asia at Thatbyinnyu Temple. While walking the amazing inner corridors of this temple, a local man sat on the exterior side of one of the temple windows and painted beautiful graphics with hand-painted sand from the Irrawaddy river. I bought a beautiful peacock painting from him in the end!

Shwe San Daw Pagoda – This attraction was listed number one on TripAdvisor at my time of visiting. It was definitely worth the time to visit and walk around. Although it was unfortunately under restoration during my visit, so much of it was obstructed.

Bulethi Pagoda – I mentioned the small, unknown neighbour of Bulethi Pagoda earlier. This was one pagoda I did carefully climb to the top of. While stepping on the pagoda is no longer allowed, I believe it is still a beautiful sight just to look at it from the ground. Bulethi Pagoda was the choice to spend sunset on day one in Bagan.

For an updated list of beautiful viewing spots for sunrise/sunset spots in Bagan, here is a link.

 

What to see in Bagan – Day 2

North Guni – As with sunset, you must see at least one sunrise in Bagan! South Guni was our original destination, but it was extremely damaged in the 2016 earthquake and was at the time still completely barricaded off to the public.

The view from North Guni is spectacular. I was in such awe of the magnificent temples and pagodas sticking out the palm trees in the distance along the Bagan plain.

Dhammayangyi Temple – Once again a temple scarred from the most recent quake during my visit in mid-2017. The second level was completely shut off to the public, but just looking in from the outside it was worth the drive!

Pathoda Temple – Driving along dusty back roads to temples was one of my favourite parts of Bagan. The drive to Pathoda Temple proved to be one of the most challenging roads I drove in Bagan. A young boy even convinced me to play a short game of soccer with a bamboo ball. He spoke no English other than “hello” but we made a connection through my favourite sport.

“Beautiful Vista through the Trees” – Obviously, this isn’t the real name of the temple complex we found when my group trusted Maps.Me to lead us into adventure, but it’s the one the app gave us! There wasn’t a well-known temple in the area. However, it makes my list of places to see due to the adventure along the dusty, rural roads of Bagan. No traffic, no people, only red dirt, yet there were small temples and a monastery along the short walk. Be careful after turning off the “main” road, the ground gets very dangerous to drive on! Massive potholes. It’s best to ditch the wheels and just walk.

 

Mount Popa Day Trip – Taung Kalat Monastery

While I could’ve spent much longer adventuring the back roads of Bagan to temple-hop, I chose to do a half day trip to Mount Popa instead. If you would rather spend your time seeking out lesser known ancient Buddhist places of worship, I can’t blame you at all! Bagan absolutely stunning, but with one look at Mount Popa’s Monastery, Taung Kalat, I knew I had to visit!

Atop a volcanic chunk of rock sits this beautiful place of worship. It will be hard to beat as one of my most memorable travel experiences, EVER. For better or worse, nerve-wracking and heartbreaking, it won’t be a story I will ever forget. Read about my story of the 777 steps, a whole lot of monkeys, a violent monsoon and hundreds of beggars risking their life for just a few cents.

Read about the full journey to Mount Popa here!

 

How to Get To and From Bagan

 

Not too far from the bus station is Bagan’s train station. A train from Bagan to Mandalay will set you back 1,500 Kyat for a hard seat, or 2,800 for a soft seat. Because the journey takes 7 hours, I suggest the soft seat. While booking tickets in advance isn’t needed, I suggest doing so as the train was quite busy at times. Getting to the station a little early (or in my case, a day early) will ensure you a seat. Everything is writing in ledger books by hand, so it might help to bring some ID to speed up the process. On the actual train and when stopped at some stations, there were a couple of locals selling snacks – if you like mango keep your eye open! So good!

Bagan buses link to many other Myanmar destinations. Inle Lake was around a 9-hour journey, and the road was quite windy. Bagan’s bus station lies a few kilometres from where the checkpoint where the 25,000 Kyat ($22 AUD) entrance fee is collected and a few more kilometres into the town centre. Both the bus and train station are very close together in Bagan, check the map out below.

 

Driving in Bagan Tips

Driving in Bagan, indeed all of Asia can be incredibly daunting. Bagan is quiet enough to ease your way into operating a two-wheeled vehicle, but there are still some things to be wary of.

Asia is well known for its scams. While I fortunately never encountered any, I learned some tips from others. Always check over your bike. Even if the owner seems friendly. Check. Your. Bike. This includes signals, lights, brakes, any signs of damage. If anything seems suspicious, try another hiring company. This comes back to my recommendation of hiring through your accommodation. But if it wasn’t said enough times, check your bike!

Check your helmet. My helmet in Vang Vieng, Laos, unclipped at the slightest breeze over 10km/hr. Not what you want to find out on a busy road! Due to a lot of the Bagan roads being dirt, a helmet visor is a handy thing! Especially at night if sunglasses are your only other option to keep the dirt out of your eyes from passing vehicles.

If you’re thinking of hitting up a temple or two for sunrise/sunset, make sure your headlight works well on your bike. The dirt roads aren’t well maintained and there are some hefty potholes. Make sure you give yourself plenty of time to drive to your destination for sunset and sunrise. Check those times closely!

 

Where to eat in Bagan

Personally, I couldn’t get enough of Myanmar’s cuisine. From their BBQ places in Mandalay to the street-carts with cricket-like insects in Yangon, I loved it all. And Bagan definitely had its highlights too!

Moon Restaurant – This veggie restaurant was so tasty! Very reasonably priced as well. Try the Aubergine curry and brown sticky rice! Great combination!

Yar Pyi Vegetarian Restaurant – This restaurant is easily identifiable by the sign proclaiming they aren’t (yet!) mentioned by Lonely Planet (the above restaurant, Moon, proudly advertises that they are). Apart from the funny banter, they had with each other, not really a local dish, but their guacamole is tasty!

As a side note, I had breakfast here after the sunrise on day 2. It was the only one open in the area. The restaurant owner was eager to show us the local almsgiving ceremony by the local Buddhist Monks in the area.
Moe Pyae San – A small restaurant, filled with locals it seemed. This lively restaurant was extremely cheap and filling. My group of four shared 8-9 plates between us and everything was amazing!

Black Bamboo  –   In the tiny district of Nyuang U, this slightly pricier restaurant is well worth a visit.

 

A short video on this 2-day Bagan itinerary

 

Bagan Trip – 2 Day Itinerary Map

 

What to See in Bagan – Information

At a few of the temples, pagodas and stupas I visited, there were locals calling me over to check a “Lucky Buddha” statue out. I had heard these were all scams of some sort, so I stayed clear. But they always did intrigue me. If you ‘ve experienced what goes on in these Lucky Buddha “scam” temples, I’d love to hear it below in the comments!

“100 Plus” is the Powerade of Myanmar. Staying hydrated in the heat is a constant battle; make sure to keep those electrolytes up!

Remember to remove all shoes before entering the temple grounds. You should also dress modestly when visiting temples, stupas and pagodas. A good rule of thumb is to cover shoulders and down to your knees.

 

Two Day Bagan Itinerary – Highlights

• Driving the back streets of Bagan to unknown temples was a great adventure!
• Ananda Temple was amazing, as were Pathoda and Thatbyinnyu Temple.
• Bagan sunset/sunrise are amazing!

 

The best things to do in Bagan have been around for centuries, but why wait any longer!? From unknown temples to amazing scenic views and monkeys from Mount Popa, spending 2 days around Bagan is an unforgettable experience.

 

Have you visited Bagan? What did you love or dislike about it? Can you talk about how the new laws have affected the tourism of Bagan? I’d love to hear your stories and comments below!

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